Milan Men’s Fashion Week Begins: What to Expect This Season
As summer arrives in Europe, Milan Fashion Week Men’s kicks off its Spring/Summer 2025 edition, setting the stage for what designers envision men will be wearing next year. Over the next four days, global fashion houses and emerging designers alike will unveil their collections across Milan’s iconic venues — from medieval castles to verdant private courtyards.Among the returning heavyweights are Prada, Giorgio Armani, and Dolce & Gabbana, names synonymous with star-studded front rows and theatrical presentations that continue to set the tone for Italian luxury.
Newcomers Join the Milan Lineup
For the first time, Paul Smith is trading Paris for Milan. The veteran British designer, who previously previewed menswear at Florence’s Pitti Uomo, brings his classic tailoring and quirky British charm to Milan’s official calendar.Also joining the mix is Vivienne Westwood, fresh off debuting a bridal runway in Barcelona. The brand, which has shown co-ed collections in Paris since 2017, returns to its roots with a men’s-focused presentation in Milan.
Emerging talent adds even more excitement: Qasimi, the Emirati label known for its minimalist elegance, and Japan’s Setchu, led by a designer with a passion for fishing, will make their Milan debuts. Setchu previously gained buzz at Pitti Uomo in January. Meanwhile, British designer Saul Nash returns for a second time, following a well-received Milan debut earlier this year. Known for his innovative activewear, Nash continues to blur the lines between sport and style.
Gucci, Fendi, and Zegna Sit Out the Season
Notably absent from the lineup are three titans of Italian fashion: Gucci, Fendi, and Zegna.Gucci has been without a creative director since February, with Demna set to take over. However, the brand has yet to confirm when his first collection will debut. Fendi, led by Silvia Venturini Fendi, is skipping the season without offering an official explanation. And Zegna opted to showcase its menswear collection in Dubai earlier this month instead.
Their absence leaves space for a broader range of voices on Milan’s stage — and an opportunity for emerging designers to claim the spotlight.
Runways Make Way for Presentations
Several brands are choosing more intimate formats over traditional catwalk shows. Brunello Cucinelli, Brioni, and Tod’s will all present their collections in private showrooms, reflecting a shift in how luxury fashion communicates exclusivity and craftsmanship.DSquared2, typically known for its high-octane runway spectacles, is also pivoting. After celebrating its 30th anniversary in February with a high-energy show featuring Doechii, the brand will host a less conventional event this time. Details remain under wraps, but anticipation is high.
